Spanish Steps, Many Churches, and Shopping

Laura and I were able to hit the town in a way that I've never done before --without a stroller! So we aimed our feet toward the Spanish Steps and wandered wherever we wanted to go.

I was expecting a lot more out of the Spanish Steps. But its claim to fame is that it's the widest staircase in all of Europe. The tallest would be impressive, but as it was we were a little underwhelmed. But we climbed them anyway!

View from the top of the Spanish Steps

The church at the top was undergoing repairs. And not too impressive either. But we went in anyway!

Looking out from the church at the top of the steps

Inside, it was clear that the church needed some repairs. There was lots of chipping paint and worn down altars.

What was most impressive was that Laura carried Stella on her back all the way up the stairs and throughout the the city.

Stella has the best seat, yet again.

Blurry, but it gives you an idea of the church.

You see so many frescos (and churches in general) that the really unique ones become the only ones that you remember. I like this particularly striking fresco in that church. Even though the demon is clearly not the best.

I love violent art

Just outside of the church we found another obelisk! Yay!

We love obelisks!
...Emma tries to scare obelisks

Yes, I know what you're thinking...

"Whoa. Those are some wide stairs."

We had a snack on the stairs and called it good. All the rest of the churches we saw that day had some very nice features. We both loved the green and red swirled marble on the walls of this church: SS MA Trinita. (The Most Holy Trinity)



Genuflecting is still required of tourists...

After everything that we saw in the Vatican museums it was clear that not all the art in the city was created equally. There were clearly better artists. Maybe at the beginning of the year I only saw the work of the better artists. But on this trip in particular I happened to notice some art that was by the newbies.

Middle of the road fresco

Of course, subject matter counts for something...

More violent art.
Who wants to be saint?!...Fortunately we're not all called to martyrdom.

Just as we leave, its good to get the door, or else there no remember what the church is called.

Church number 2 also had some of the red and green marble. It must have been popular in this district of Rome. I found some nice statues here.

David with his harp(?)

And a young saint with a temper...

Anyone?

We also ran into the heart of Saint Charles. But I couldn't figure out which Charles that was.

In the church with the heart...

Massive. Lots of stripes. 

And I found my homegirl/patron saint: Helen of the True Cross!

This was an enormous altar.

Musicians. Always important.

Angel band.

Ok, I forgot to get the door of this one, but I really liked it. It was beautiful.

Then we searched out the store called "Da Da Da" in which Laura had seen a dress that she really liked. Were we surprised to see that it cost 200 some euros? Not really. It's Rome. And it was on the Corso.

Oooo! Pretty!

Desigual is a really neat store with everything in bold geometric type patterns.
We like them because they give us balloons.

Emma does not approve of this.

This particular day, with Laura carrying Stella and myself either dragging or carrying Emma through the final streets to the bus stop was quite exhausting. It was hot. We were sweaty. And it was time to go home. This was our final stopping point, just outside of bus stop. It looked impressive and a little communist.

"And that's a wrap!"

After that, of course, we all napped. Because there is no kicking-it in Rome that doesn't take it all out of you! Whew!

Assisi with Laura

On a lucky day when Daddy decided to watch the girls for us, Laura, Dieter and I made a day trip to Assisi. When we got off of the train I figured we could just wander around and find our way to the heart of the town. After just a few minutes I realized that the train stop was pretty far from the downtown. But by the grace of God, a seminarian friend showed up only a minute later and we followed him to get bus tickets and find the bus stop. 

After a twisty turvy ride up the hill we came to the gate of the city.

Just inside the gates, the streets had far smoother cobblestone than what we were used to in Rome. And the one-level buildings, all connected were new too.

Dieter was a great travel buddy as usual. he was only a month, so not too heavy yet.

Vista overlooking the wall

More Tuscan views

We took many selfies: Here in front of the Basilica of St. Fransis.

This shop caught my eye because everything seemed so lacy and flowy. I really wanted to get something for my stepmom, but turns out the it was only the necklaces that were 10 euros. The shirts were about 95 euros. Too bad.

Old time peasant meets pastels

I was eyeing those scarves too...

But butterfly pajamas? I think not.

We explored the house of St. Francis's Father. The wooden door is an original. Watch out, first steps a doosey!

Around the wealthy father's home

The basement chapel had an old stone altar, but modernistic altar piece. Strange.

No more selfies, just Lauraies. :)

Church of St. Fransis

I think this has an attractive line of dumpsters. Oh no, I mean alleyway.

Even in little ol' Assisi they still have their collection of small churches. Here is Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Which means this little Baroque church was built on top of a temple to Minerva. The outer facade has the columns which date back to the age of Christ.

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, Assisi

Bells. Wall. I don't know why I took this. It must have been the bells. Nice bells, huh? Moving on....

Ok, this has a little better view :)

And this one's the same, but for Laura. This hilltop towns really give your calves a workout. At every turn there are more steps like these that go very steeply into another part of town. And there's no way around them!

Steps down into the town.

More steps up to a a more residential alley. The town only has about 3,000 inhabitants, while it gets about 4 to 5 million visitors every year.

So, yes, it has become a little 'touristy' but the shops are fun too!

We went on such a perfectly clear day, that yes, you really could see for miles.

I wanted to immortalize Dietrich's first big travel day in Assisi and capture him infront of the magnificent Basilica. But he didn't think it was a great idea.

Then he realized I was holding his little floppy body on the edge of wall that had a hundred foot drop on the other side. This made him feel a little better.

"I can't look!" 

Ah, reclined was a little better.

I really wish that this could be my back yard.(As it is, we only see direct sun beam into our apartment for only an hour a day. And no nature)

Such a beautiful retreat

*Sigh*

This makes the hills worthwhile

You want to see the Basicilica one more time?? Sure thing!

Voila!

While we didn't see all the major churches of Assisi, we did search out and find the tiny, not really on the radar churches.

So not on the radar
that I can't even remember the name of it.

Small and quaint.

If you want to see more of Assisi and its churches, I recommend going to here to some very nice photos and much better explanations than I ever give.

Suddenly it wasn't quite a clear day. It started to down pour so quickly, we found ourselves running through the streets searching for a restaurant. We got to one before we got too drenched.

Success! Pizza!

With a sleeping baby and bubbly wine (not called champagne unless it is from that region) I enjoyed a freshly made pasta with "game". Don't know what it was but I enjoyed it immensely. It made me think I just need to eat more Italian food outside of Rome.

Cheers!

It was perfect timing, because at the end of our meal, the skies cleared up. Their little main piazza had a small fountain and a medieval bell tower.

We almost went into a Davinci Museum, but it cost a few euros. Instead, we went to this free museum. It didn't talk long to see why it was free. The man minding the door was every so generous, to the point of being pushy as he offered to take pictures of us.

We didn't even have a chance to look around to see what we were being photographed in front of. Then as we turned to look, he would hurriedly point to something else on another wall and wave us over for another picture.

Note: table from the 1400's, medieval arch, and lanterns

Then he showed to his (very professionally labeled) chastity belts for men (uomo) and women (donna).  May I note that the womens had a small hole in the bottom with sharp jagged edges that were pointing out. I guess they didn't even attempt crossing your legs with that one.

Real?
I have no idea.

This is a medieval well.  In the floor. Boy this place was random.

I think he said the big knife on the right was for behedding.

A tunnel in the wall, was an ancient Roman aqueduct. Next to a television with a blank blue screen glowing.

Let's not forget our ancient stuffed fox and badger.

Who needs Toys'R'Us?  This was what they used to hold babies up. An old time baby standing chair.

Complete with wheels

Needless to say, as we left the man put on his sad/concerned face and asked for money. Ah! Now we see why he wanted to "give" us some pictures! Thanks but no thanks. Dieter was starting to get fussy and I was ready to get out of there. Babies can make a great exit excuse. But Laura stayed behind and gave him a few euros. I felt like I had left a man behind in the trenches. When people are begging you for money, they can be very, very, persistent. I have learned how hold my resolve and I feel like I should have drug Laura out of there before the man claimed her money. Sorry Laura!

So I bought her this 150 euro hat.

Just kidding.
No hat for you!

We both enjoyed marveling over how expensive stuff can be ;)

Just as I thought we could easily find our way up and into Assisi, I had assumed we could make it back with no problem. How hard could it be? Assisi was up a gigantic hill. The train station was at the bottom. To get to it, go down. So we give ourselves about half an hour to walk and start heading out. But then the road forks 10 minutes in and I have no idea which way to go. Fortunately it was just a few hundred feet beyond a parking lot. So I went back up to the lot to ask some directions of the next person to come by. Just a minute later, there was an old man walking to his car. I ask him how to get to the train station and he says a few things I don't understand, but then without really stopping or turning to look at me kind of gestures for us to follow him. He was offering us a ride? Really? Our feet were certainly tired and we welcomed this gesture of kindness. I was more worried that others might think us stupid to jump in a car of a random man, than I was actually worried about this man. He was even very patient and spoke very slowly with just a few words to tell us that when he was much younger, he didn't have a car, and so he understood what it was like traveling on foot. He was a nurse at the hospital an the station was on his way home. And plus he said it would take an hour or more to walk all the way to the station. He dropped us off right at the door to the station.

Thank you little traveling angels along our way!